Bruce instead decides to ignore them, and make a totally insane horizontal jump between two distant platforms. Remember that if you shorten your rope (such as to remove a frayed end), the middle marker will no longer be correct.2) Once he climbs to the anchor, which is very, very near the mouth of the pit, there are three ledges above him he could easily climb like a ladder to safety. Some ropes even have a different colour or pattern on each half to identify the middle. This is useful in many situations such as gauging how much rope a leader has left, or when setting up an abseil where you need the rope to be perfectly centered at the anchor. Most ropes have some kind of mark on their sheath to identify the middle. Your rope is your most critical piece of gear – it’s better to carry a bit more weight than to skimp on safety. But at the crag, they are more susceptible to abrasion on rough rock or being cut over a sharp edge.įor high-use situations (e.g: big walling, top-roping or working a sport route) a thicker, more durable rope is much better. Skinny ropes are safe – they pass the UIAA lab tests. Single rated ropes can be as thin as 8.5mm, making them great for alpine routes. Some devices are not compatible with very thin or very thick ropes. Be aware that the diameter of your rope may affect which belay devices you can use it with. Basically, thinner ropes are lighter and thicker ropes are more durable. If you get straight back on the rock and then fall immediately, the impact forces will be much higher.Ĭlimbing ropes come in many different diameters. Lower impact forces are better.Īfter a fall, let your rope “rest” for five minutes to recover its elasticity. However, for trad climbing, a rope with a low impact force will generate less force on your gear, making it more likely to hold the fall. This isn’t much of a concern for sport climbing, where protection is always bomber bolts. The more energy a rope can absorb, the lower the force on your protection. They do, however, wear out over time, especially if you take a lot of falls.
They don’t fail unless they run over a sharp edge of rock, which cuts it, or if they have been stored amongst sharp objects or acidic chemicals such as bleach or leaking batteries. In real climbing situations, a rope will withstand hundreds of falls. Every UIAA certified rope is tested far more severely than you are likely to experience when climbing, so you don’t need to retire your rope just because it’s rated to six falls and you’ve taken seven. This is the number of falls using a specific test which indicates how many falls a rope can take before it breaks. Every climbing rope is rated for a certain number of falls.
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